Southeast Asia Information Port News (www.dnyxxg.com) As the Spring Festival approaches, the festive atmosphere in Shanghang County, Longyan City, Fujian Province, is growing stronger. Families are busy making traditional Hakka snacks called "Mi La Chang" (rice cakes). The sweet aroma permeates the air, carrying the rich heritage of Hakka New Year customs and long-standing rural memories, becoming an indispensable flavor on the reunion dinner table.
On February 4th, the day of Lichun (the beginning of spring), a large iron pot on a simple stove was burning brightly in front of a house in the Southeast Community of Linjiang Town, Shanghang County. A handful of dried cooked rice was sprinkled into boiling salt, instantly crackling and popping as the grains expanded and turned into golden-brown rice popcorn. The rich aroma of grains filled the air, marking the beginning of the Mi La Chang making process.
The most challenging part of making Mi La Chang is the sugar-boiling stage. Maltose and granulated sugar are dissolved in water and slowly simmered in a pot to form a syrup. The maker, holding chopsticks, constantly stirs the syrup, relying entirely on experience to control the color and consistency until the syrup is golden, clear, and thick enough to form threads. "The most important part is cooking the sugar syrup; it has to be cooked until it forms threads," says resident Wen Yuelan. This crucial step directly determines the crisp, non-sticky, and sweet-but-not-greasy texture of the rice crackers.
Once the syrup is ready, pre-fried rice puffs, peanuts, and sesame seeds are quickly added and stirred evenly. While still hot, it's poured into molds and pressed firmly. After cooling and setting, it's cut into pieces, and the golden, crispy rice crackers, plump with nuts, are freshly made, emitting a sweet aroma.
Rice crackers, also known as "rice candy" or "fried rice crackers," are a traditional Hakka snack with a long history. They combine fragrance, sweetness, crispness, and crunchiness, and were once a signature food for festivals in towns like Shanghang's Rentian and Lanxi. With the relocation of reservoir area residents and the expansion of living spaces, this craft has been brought to urban communities, continuing the traditional New Year's tradition through geographical migration.
"We've been living here for over 20 years, and we still make rice cakes every year. Making rice cakes means it's New Year's!" said resident Li Dongying, revealing the resilience of this custom's inheritance. The production scene has expanded from rural kitchens to community open spaces and stairwells, becoming not only a transmission of delicious food but also a warm carrier for neighbors to gather and reminisce about their hometown, allowing the younger generation to directly experience the warmth and cultural weight of traditional handicrafts.
Today, even with the abundance of modern snacks on the market, many families in Shanghang still insist on making rice cakes by hand. "Making rice cakes must be passed down every year; it can't be lost," says Wen Yuelan. Her dedication is not only a preservation of the ancient craft but also a protection of the roots of Hakka culture.
Thanks to the development of the internet and logistics, this Hakka flavor has crossed mountains and seas, becoming a carrier of homesickness. “My daughter married and moved to Fuzhou. Every year during the Spring Festival, she says, ‘Mom, please make some rice crackers and send them to me,’” Li Dongying said with a smile. A small rice cracker connects migration and longing, memory and anticipation, allowing Hakka traditional New Year customs to continue to resonate in the new era, becoming the most authentic “taste of home” in the hearts of those far from home. (End)
